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When you feel confident visualizing and using picks to maneuver around the pins in the AR1 and SX keyways, you're ready to start actually opening locks. Intuitively visualizing the inside of a lock takes a bit of practice, but will pay off as you start picking locks in earnest. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over. It's possible that the plug will turn as soon as you set the first pin; if this happens, it's because you inadvertently lifted the other pin with the shaft of your pick while you were working on the first one. Unset/binding. The pin stack is the currently most misaligned one. The numbers on the front of the practice locks indicate the keying codes, from the front-most pin stack to the rear-most. Now re-apply torque and set the first binding pin. Now release torque and try again, but this time lift the pins as little as you can when you test them, while still distinguishing between the two states.

Finally, lift the pin that sets first very high before you apply torque. The most common security pins are the "spool" and "mushroom" top pin designs, which are thinner in their mid-section. To neutralize a partially set spool or mushroom pin, reduce torque and push the pin up, allowing the plug to rotate backward a bit as you do. The first sign of spool and mushroom pins is that the lock will appear to be picked, but will only turn a few degrees. Congratulations, you've picked the (two pin) lock. If pushed up, it eventually sets and the plug turns slightly (and the pin stack's state changes to set/not-binding). While this might have gotten the lock open, you just as easily might have pushed the cut past the shear line entirely, preventing the lock from opening altogether. Now the top pin is above the shear line and the bottom pin is below it.

Overset/binding. The cut in the pin stack is past the shear line. The resistant pin stack is the called the binding pin. Now the plug is being prevented from moving by the next most misaligned pin (which, in this case, is the other pin, since there are only two). You should already be able to distinguish between an unset pin that isn't binding, an already set pin, and a pin that is binding. If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, you may have an overset pin instead. In particular, you should feel when you set a pin as much in the torque tool as you do in the pick. Practice picking the two pin lock until you can do it easily and naturally. In lock picking terminology, we say that the pin statck is binding.

Repeat this exercise until you can reliably distinguish between a binding and a non-binding pin with very little lifting. See Figures 3 and 4. Once you're comfortable with the AR1 keyway, move on to the "Ilco SX" keyway locks and repeat the exercise. Several positions are possible; here a vertically-oriented torque tool is used at the top of the keyway. Chances are the two pins will be reversed -- the formerly springy one will give resistance and the formerly stuck one will be springy. The other should give you a bit of resistance. It feels "squishy," with more resistance than from just the spring. This may be a consequence of more stringent European insurance standards for physical security. Picking lever locks generally requires different tools from those used for pin tumbler locks, what is billiards and high security lever locks often require specialized purpose-made tools. In a lock with six pin stacks with a uniform chance of a pin setting at either shear line, the probability of a picked lock actually opening is only 1/64. Picking techniques for these locks involve the use of special torque tools designed to put torque on only one of the two concentric plugs. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset.